Sukhothai

We arrived last evening by train. We did very little that day as we wanted to get an early start the next morning. We awoke to a breakfast of rice soup, Thai tea, and some work in the garden that was precarious at best. I don’t understand why low wage workers are willing to take so many risks. This guy set-up a metal frame like those used by dry-wall hangers in the States. He then put a half rotten board on top and stood his ladder on top of that. We didn’t stick around. I wonder if that ambulance we saw a few minutes later was for him?

First we need to attend to business. we went to find the bus stop to inquire about passage to some other place Zine wanted to see. Some temple or historical site. It took about thirty minutes to discuss the various options which all boiled down to, there is only one bus and it leaves at 1:00 p.m.

On the way back we stopped at a coffee shop. The guy was nice and commiserated with us about the lack of options to get to the place we wanted to go. He was nice but his coffee prep could use some instruction.

We finally made our way to the mural street. Some of the paintings were decent, but the really interesting thing was the coffee shop with the three octogenarians. They were very nice and I wish we’d have skipped the earlier coffee shop and had coffee with these guys. Their coffee was probably terrible, but the conversation was interesting.

While waiting for the bus, Zine saw a truck packing dry goods (I learned later they are known as a pig-pin truck). She asked the driver where he was going. After learning that he was going our way, she asked if we could catch a ride. For 30 baht per person, he agreed. Zine was super excited. Since the bus was supposed to cost 20 baht, I don’t really know why.

We arrived across the river from Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Rajaworaviharn temple. Yeah, you’ll be forgiven for not knowing how to pronounce that. We asked at a shop nearby about where we could leave our bags while we explored the temple grounds. The lady said we could leave them with her. She then asked what we were doing after and said she’d carry us to Si Satchanalai historical park.

We had lunch just outside the temple, looked around, and made our way back to the shop with our bags. The lady drove us to the historical park. We paid the entrance fee and selected bicycles so we could ride around the grounds. It seemed like a bit of bother, not worth the effort, until we made it through the gate. This place is great. Long, straight roads with no cars, large shady trees, and old temples in ruins. One of the best park experiences I’ve had in Thailand. They’ve got street view on Google Maps if you’re interested.

Our homestay host came to drive us to his house. We went on a bicycle tour shortly after arriving. We stopped at a garden which was probably the best garden I’ve seen anywhere. Green beans, bananas, papaya, limes, and all manner of other things I can’t remember. After returning to the house, we had dinner. A full spread with too many things that are too difficult to write in English. We might have eaten half and were ready to bust.

The evening’s entertainment came by way of a welcome ceremony. It was nice at first. An ancient lady gave me a blessing and wrapped my wrists in string. Zine was given the same treatment. A few performances were given and then it all went to hell. Music was turned up to an unreasonable volume, which would have been bad enough, but then there was dancing. As the “music” continued to get louder I was expected to participate. I smiled, shuffled myself to the dance floor, and began cutting a rug.

I was not prepared for how cold it was that night. We were given two blankets and thank God. I was still cold even with two.

The next morning we woke at 6:00 a.m. so we could give an offering to the local monks. The homestay hosts didn’t go with us. After we came back, we had coffee. About an hour after that we were served breakfast. It was kantok style same as the night before.

It was about 9:00 a.m. before it wasn’t freezing. I wore a scarf and jacket till almost noon.

Since we were there to scout places for the (now defunct) tour company, we decided to stay at two places, one each night. About noon the host at the first house took us to a central area and to a restaurant. I kinda figured one of the two places would give us lunch but we had to buy it ourselves. It was so-so; a large noodle with smaller noodles and cabbage inside was the house specialty. Yeah, noodles inside of noodles, you read that correctly.

The second host came to fetch us about the time we were finishing. She was twenty years older and came with a dog in tow. We walked with her back to her place about fifty yards down the road. It was a nice looking place. She had a number of fruit trees and grass in the yard. It might surprise you that this is worth mentioning, but in Thailand it is, as most people have dirt yards.

It was decided that we were to have green curry for dinner. We went to the host’s sister’s house to rummage in her garden. We got some small egg plants to go in the curry and used a long pole to knock some pomelos down for dessert. Once we were back, Zine went to bathe while it was still warm and I was put to work making the curry. I peeled onions and garlic while the host cut lemongrass, lime, and other herbs. I was then given the mortar and pestle and told to beat them into a paste. Once the paste was finished we cooked it with coconut milk and poured it over a fried fish. It was great.

It wasn’t nearly as cold which was both very welcome and a shame. I wish we’d have stayed at the second host the first night and the first the second night. This room was made of brick and had a solid roof. I think it would have been much warmer. The problem was the shower. This place had the worst excuse for a shower head you’ve ever seen. It trickles out at a pace that takes the better part of a half hour to rinse soap from your body.

We took the most chill bus ride I’ve probably ever taken in Thailand from the rural area of the home-stays into Sukhothai. The driver acted like he actually wanted to live. From the bus station in Sukhothai we caught another pig-pin truck to our hotel, the Scent of Sukhothai.

After checking in at the hotel, we dropped our bags and headed to the historical park. We were planning a bicycle tour the following day and wanted to get some photos when not in motion. We got a few really good shots. Some with backlit buddhas and pigeons in flight and some after night fall — worth the 100 bath entrance fee.

We woke about 6:30 a.m. and had breakfast. Just after 8:00 a.m. Jip arrived to take us to his house where the bicycles were waiting. We picked up an American woman on the way. She was supposed to go with another group but asked if she could join us as we were doing a whole day instead of a half day. We tested the bikes Jip had selected for us and we were off.

We started the day by going through the countryside. We stopped to see a man bathing his fighting roosters, a bamboo basket weaving operation, and a teak furniture manufacturer. In between were lots of neighborhood sights and lots of rice fields.

As we started to make our way back to the historical park we stopped to see various temples — I don’t remember the names, but I remember the stories. Jip did a great job telling us about the history and local folk lore. It was one of the best tours I’ve ever been on, certainly the best tour I’ve been on in Thailand. The bicycles were well maintained and balanced. We had snacks waiting for us at a mid-way point. Lunch was included. This is exactly the type of tour you want to go on: an experienced guide who learned the history, a native to the area who knows the local folklore, and a natural storyteller. By the end of the day you’ll know more than you knew and you’ll feel like you’ve been friends with Jip for years — or that was my experience.

I don’t know if all women are like this or if it’s only Zine. She can’t travel without packing half the house. We were at the airport and she went off to take photos. My lips were dry so I looked in her bag for chapstick. She usually keeps some in the little pocket on the side. I didn’t find chapstick but I did find two plastic forks, dental floss, a half used roll of toilet paper, wet-wipes, and ear plugs among other things. The girl is prepared, come what may.

We boarded a prop plane and had an uneventful flight to Bangkok. Once in Bangkok, we didn’t doc at a gangway. We parked the plane in the back forty and were herded onto a bus. After we circled the airport about three times we were deposited at the arrivals gate. Once inside we were made to wait half an hour for our luggage. I guess it was also given a tour of the airport.

This is the part of the article where you’d expect some summary or some enlightened thought about travel. I’ve got nothing like that. We took the skytrain back and shared a bowl of curry at Golden Curry when we switched trains at Makkasan station. It was not quite on the CoCo Ichibanya level, but it was good. Better than I was expecting. And I guess that’s it, if there was some grand summation about this trip. It was better than I was expecting.